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Installing something outside the project directory from a cmake
invocation is overly intrusive; this changes tests/CMakeLists.txt to
just fail with an informative message instead, and changes the
travis-ci builds to install pytest via pip or apt-get.

Fixes #357.

- ICPC can't handle the NCVirt trampoline which returns a non-copyable
  type, which is likely due to a constexpr/SFINAE issue. This disables
  the test on that compiler so that at least the rest can be tested.

Most of the test code is left in C++ since this is the
intended use case for the eval functions.

Pytest is a development dependency but we can make it painless by
automating the install using CMake.

There are more enum tests than 'constants and functions'.

The C++ part of the test code is modified to achieve this. As a result,
this kind of test:

```python
with capture:
    kw_func1(5, y=10)
assert capture == "kw_func(x=5, y=10)"
```

can be replaced with a simple:

`assert kw_func1(5, y=10) == "x=5, y=10"`

Use simple asserts and pytest's powerful introspection to make testing
simpler. This merges the old .py/.ref file pairs into simple .py files
where the expected values are right next to the code being tested.

This commit does not touch the C++ part of the code and replicates the
Python tests exactly like the old .ref-file-based approach.