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Installing something outside the project directory from a cmake
invocation is overly intrusive; this changes tests/CMakeLists.txt to
just fail with an informative message instead, and changes the
travis-ci builds to install pytest via pip or apt-get.

Pytest is a development dependency but we can make it painless by
automating the install using CMake.

There are more enum tests than 'constants and functions'.

Use simple asserts and pytest's powerful introspection to make testing
simpler. This merges the old .py/.ref file pairs into simple .py files
where the expected values are right next to the code being tested.

This commit does not touch the C++ part of the code and replicates the
Python tests exactly like the old .ref-file-based approach.